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10.3.4

Sugarcane

238 Flatbush Ave., Brooklyn, NY
between Bergen St. and 6th Ave.

Don't be deceived by the gleaming chrome decor. All the energy here is going into the incredible food.

My companion loved the barbecue chicken appetizer (in sweet hoisin sauce, on skewers, resting on a bed of fresh mesclun greens), and the pork ribs. I found the vegetarian roti completely addictive - it resembled nothing so much as a huge curry potato burrito.

As far as side dishes go, the fried plantains (caramelized with brown sugar) are a real standout. I also loved the cabbage (sauteed with carrot slivers, flavorful and tender without being at all mushy), and the mashed potatoes (uniquely dry and potatoey, with generous amounts of boiled garlic mashed in and no butter taste). Rice and beans were a little dry for me.

We didn't try the intriguing tropically themed mixed drinks, but I hear they're good.

Service is occasionally slow and the restaurant is often packed, so I'd recommend you come early, e.g. at opening time.

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