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6.12.4
Rose Water
741 Union St., Brooklyn (@ 6th Ave.)We had to leave work early to get to Rose Water by 6:30, since the national board of directors of the Slow Food movement was eating there at 9. My better half ordered a three cheese plate, of which the best was a Sicilian sheep's milk blue cheese. There was also a locally made raw cow's milk cheese, Fleur de Lis, and another cow cheese (Pont L'Eveque? can't remember, since I didn't have it).
Unluckily for my digestive system, a lot of the dishes turned out to be milk- or cream-based, including the sauteed morels I had as an entree. (I know I should always ask, but the menu descriptions in New York are usually quite thorough.) The other entree was a pork chop braised in milk and sprinkled with tasty chunks of fried bacon. I thought it was fairly good. With the exception of the cheese plate, the other four dishes we had all came with "spring peas" which were inconsistent - some sweet and plump, others green and hard. I can see why Rose Water got a 24 on this year's Zagat's, but they rely a bit too much on oil and cream and animal products to win my heart.
I really miss Eva in Seattle... Nell's, too... New York must have an equivalent, but where?
P.S. I've been back several times since then for brunch... their brunch is fantastic. More on this soon, hopefully.
P.P.S. Rose Water is now one of my favorite restaurants in New York, both for brunch and for dinner. I had a transcendent experience there recently involving gnocchi and toasted almonds in brown butter with local mushrooms.
"Sauteed Heirloom Apples, Brussels Sprouts & Delicata Squash
"Recipe by Chef Ethan Kostbar of Rose Water Restaurant
"During the fall months I often rely on this quick seasonal side dish. This basic fall saute is so versatile that it can easily be paired up with most poultry, beef, and pork preparations, as well as meatier fish such as code, bass, tuna, or halibut.
Serves Four
- 1 T. Olive Oil
- 3 Winesaps (or other heirloom cooking apples) sliced 1/4" thick
- 10 Brussels sprouts, halved
- 1 Delicata squash, peeled, halved, seeded, and sliced into 1/4" half-moons
- Splash apple cider
- 1 T. Butter
- 1/4 t. salt
Preheat oven to 350.
Heat oil in a large, oven-safe frying pan on medium-high heat. Add brussels sprouts and cook till a bit browned, 1 to 2 minutes, then transfer pan to oven for 4 minutes. Return pan to burner and add squash and apples. Saute over medium-high heat until all ingredients begin to soften, 3 or 4 minutes, then add apple cider and butter, and season with salt to taste."
